-
- Founder:
- kdogg
-
- Members:
- 153 (0 online)
-
- Posts:
- 7793
-
- Founded:
- 2 years, 5 months ago
-
- Newest Member:
-
mattmacain
A forum for things of great societal impact
Loading
798 views
Dropped the car
Page 1
1–17
Thanx for the hookup Karl, here is my 2004 Mazda6 v6, with Eibach prokit (1.5") and i added Tokico shocks, and if anyone has wrenched on these cars, the rear shocks are a pain in the dick! Car looks good and handles great, the car is a lot of fun to drive, on the street. Took it to A-Tire for an alignment and they said my camber is off and i will eat through my tires, and i need adjustable upper balljoints, WTF? 1.5" drop is what i got and i need adjustable ball joints? i hope not, i cant really drop another $200 at this moment. Car didnt have any camber to start off with, and its not too extreme after the drop, almost looks like this is how the car should have looked originally.


Looks badass steve. Needs more rimz now!!!
__________________
Looks sweeta than a plate of yams with EXTRA syrup.
thanx, i love the car, but the bitch that owned this before me neglected the shit out of this car, i put a lot of new parts on this car and am not sure if this motor will live a long happy life with me? Heard a lot of issues with cats clogging and debris being sucked backing into the motor, also the inside of my cylinder head (from what i can see from the oil cap), is just sludged the fuck up! U can scraped it with you nail :( Not sure what i can do, someone told me to run some Auto-RX (12oz solvent) and pray. Also i now have oil leaks from multiple spots, when this car was bone dry when i bought it, like the fresh oil changes loosen shit up and caused leaks.
Hmmm... Are you using synthetic motor oil now? U know that broad who owned it was using .99cent wal mart rock oil in there before... I've heard that can cause issues, running synthetics on a car that was ran for 100K with conventionals...
put 8oz. of diesel fuel in with the oil and let it idle for 20 min. then drain and change with new filter, that will lossen any of the unwanted garbage in the motor
put 8oz. of diesel fuel in with the oil and let it idle for 20 min. then drain and change with new filter, that will lossen any of the unwanted garbage in the motor
-09champ
I have heard of that, does it really work? A woman here at work told me her husband (64yr old), would drain the oil and pour a gallon of diesel in and let it run for 2 minutes and drain it! That sounds scary with no oil! Would 8oz, do anything?
Karl, first oil change i did i added Castrol GTX 5W-30 conventional. Last oil change i did last month i did Ford Motorcraft Synthetic Blend 5W-20 since the MFR recommends it, and also a quart of Marvels Mystery oil. Plan to go back to conventional next time and stay with it.
Its not good to go back and forth between conventional and synthetic.
Car looks badass tho my buddy has a blue one. they are decent cars
Hmmm... I've heard that can cause issues, running synthetics on a car that was ran for 100K with conventionals...
-kdogg
heard the same thing. can cause small leaks, because the synthetic is thinner oil.
& as moose said you shouldnt switch back and forth between the 2, just put whatever brand name oil is your preference and stick to the recommended weight as stated by the manufacturer.
yes we all know and established that. i have no idea what type oil was run its 100k miles, but i just put a blend in 500 miles ago and this leak was here before that change. I will stick with GTX for now on.
Yes the diesel fuel trick works great I would howeveer put in more than 8 OZ
thanx, i love the car, but the bitch that owned this before me neglected the shit out of this car, i put a lot of new parts on this car and am not sure if this motor will live a long happy life with me? Heard a lot of issues with cats clogging and debris being sucked backing into the motor, also the inside of my cylinder head (from what i can see from the oil cap), is just sludged the fuck up! U can scraped it with you nail :( Not sure what i can do, someone told me to run some Auto-RX (12oz solvent) and pray. Also i now have oil leaks from multiple spots, when this car was bone dry when i bought it, like the fresh oil changes loosen shit up and caused leaks.
-fatty
i sell Amsoil and they carry a engine flush. i used it before switching over all my vehicles and in my 2001 deisel truck i used 3 bottles due to the oil capacity and my filter was full of shit. here is the info on it. i can get you a MSS hook up on it if you would like.
16-oz. Bottle
16-oz. Bottles (case of 12)
5-Gallon Pail
* Product cannot be shipped air freight or parcel post.
Chances are, when your engine was new it delivered the power and fuel efficiency it was designed for. But now, as your engine accumulates miles, things are happening that are adversely affecting its performance. Slowly but surely, your engine is gathering harmful deposits that will eventually cost you money.
Even though you may follow a routine service schedule, your driving conditions may be far from routine. Stop and go driving, prolonged periods of idling, short trips that don't allow your engine time to warm up, towing a trailer, the ingestion of airborne dirt, fuel dilution, water condensation, and oxidized oil will eventually cause the formation of a thick, gummy deposit known as sludge. Settling throughout the engine, sludge will clog oil passages, restricting the flow of oil to vital engine parts, especially in the upper valve train areas.
Don't put clean oil in a dirty engine!
When an engine gets dirty, even regular oil changes can't help restore its operating efficiency. The detergen/dispersants in most conventional engine oils can't handle the abnormal amounts of contamination found in a "dirty" engine. The new oil becomes dirty long before it should, losing much of its ability to lubricate and protect your engine and actually accelerating the formation of more sludge and varnish.
In this age of longer recommended drain intervals, it is especially important to have a clean engine before changing oil. Using AMSOIL Fast Acting Engine Flush when you change oil is an excellent way to guarantee your engine stays clean. It has special solvents and cleaning agents that act fast but gently to remove harmful deposits that can cost you money in excessive fuel consumption and mechanical repairs.
AMSOIL Engine Flush is especially recommended for use before changing to AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oils, assuring that these super premium long life oils provide the maximum protection and service life they are designed to deliver.
|
The AMSOIL Formula for Better Engine Performance
|
*Note: Engine Flush is not recommended for use in transmissions, differentials, air-cooled engines, engines that share a common oil sump with the transmission (motorcycles & ATV's) or engine not equipped with an oil filter.
2) INSTALL: Remove the old oil filter and replace it with an AMSOIL Ea Oil Filter. Ea Oil Filters feature advanced full synthetic nanofiber technology, making them the highest efficiency filters that are available for the auto/light truck market.
3) POUR: Fill the engine's crankcase with the AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oil of the viscosity grade recommended by your vehicle's manufacturer. AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oils are highly resistant to oxidation and provide exceptional detergent/dispersant properties, helping keep your engine free of further sludge and varnish build-up.
4) CHANGE: Replace your present air filter with an AMSOIL Ea Air Filter. AMSOIL Ea Air Filters represent a major breakthrough in filtration technology. The revolutionary nanofiber technology used in AMSOIL Ea Filters captures more dirt, holds more dirt and allows better air flow than conventional air filters. AMSOIL Ea Filters improve engine performance and help engines last longer.
A clean engine performs better and lasts longer. Clean your engine and keep it clean with quality AMSOIL products.
| Engine Flush (AEF) AMSOIL Fast Acting Engine Flush is made from a carefully selected blend of solvents and special cleaning agents that dissolve and disperse harmful deposits formed in the crankcase, cylinder walls, pistons and rings of an internal combustion engine. When used as directed, it cleans and restores operating efficiency to valves, valve lifters, rocker arms, and pistons for improved horsepower, fuel economy, and performance. Use before changing oil. Package sizes include: |
Page 1
1–17
